There are so many reasons why people visit Prague: the history, the architecture, and a plethora of art. There are castles to visit, medieval streets to wander, and plenty of places to enjoy great Czech beer. One thing many people don’t think about is Czech food. Yes, we all go eat on vacation but, unlike some locations, for Prague, and the Czech Republic generally, food isn’t a tourist draw. To me, this is a sad oversight of a country with a rich history and culture of food.
Street Food and Quick Bites in Prague
So, let’s start with a simple walk through Prague. This city has a good amount of what could best be called street food. Sausages on a bun. Ham, cooked over a grill and served with bread and mustard. We have a number of sweet treats and pizza by the slice. I am sure you are wondering what places are good and which ones to avoid.
Let me give you a few hints. I would compare the sausage places to hot dog stands in the US. Many are good, some not so much. I tend to move to the busier establishments since they have to continuously prepare more food. If you walk into a place and they have a good bit of food on the back grill, it has probably been sitting for a while.
The ham, cooked on a spit, I personally would avoid. It will not be bad, but if you want a well-prepared ham or pork dish, I will go to a restaurant. The pizza is, well, pizza. It is really hard to make bad pizza, but why would you come to Prague to eat pizza? Maybe you do, I will not judge you.
Trdelník vs Koláče: What’s Really Czech?
There is one bit of street food that can cause disagreement from the locals. The trdelník, is often called chimney cake by tourists. This tasty treat is not originally Czech, it is Hungarian, thus the grumbling you will hear from some Czechs. You will see it sold plain, or filled with fruit and cream or even ice cream. Here is my take on this treat, have a plain one. It is soft and doughy covered in sugar and cinnamon. What is not to like about that?!? I love these things!! Just don’t tell my Czech friends. My warning, get it with ice cream and it will be a soggy mess within 5 minutes. Plus, many places do not use good quality ice cream. You have been warned.
If you happen to be in the company of a Czech, they will steer you away from the trdelník and to a koláče. These pastries are made with yeast dough with a helping of fruit, cream, or poppy seed in the center. They are round and about 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) in diameter. These can be found in almost any of the multitude of cafes throughout the city. Stop, have a coffee and a koláče. You will be happy you did.
Eating at Restaurants: What to Expect
So, enough snacks on the street, let’s go dine at a restaurant. Something I discovered when I first moved here is, it is best to get a reservation. I have placed reservations for coffee shops, cafes, and even a place called “Mr. Hot Dog”. Though there are places you can walk into, it is better to be prepared.
Czech Food and Dining Habits that Might Surprise You
Let’s see what a Czech meals look like. One thing I know Americans are used to is all the extras we usually get with a meal. A small soup or salad, bread, and water, all for free. Not in the Czech Republic! If you want a soup or salad you will buy it from the menu. Bread will come with a soup but if you ask for bread you will be charged more often than not.
Finally, you get charged for water at most restaurants. Some now sell carafes of water but usually, it is sold bottled. You will be asked if you want sparkling or regular water. Sometimes you will be asked if you want water with gas. I know, I giggled the first time I heard it too. It simply means sparkling water.
Drinks to Try in the Czech Republic
Let’s start our meal. First, what to drink. The Czech beverage of choice is beer. This is the most beer-drinking country in the world, per capita. And when I say drink beer I do not mean popping open a 6 pack of cans. A Czech wants a well-made beer, poured properly and in the correct mug. Beer is an experience, not just a beverage.
Not a beer person, perhaps a Czech wine will suit you? Of the wine produced, only about 30 percent is exported. The Czechs drink the rest. One thing you don’t see much of is mixed drinks. Yes, there are a few mixed drink bars but most attract more tourists than locals. That tells you something about the quality of the wine and beer.
As for nonalcoholic beverages, perhaps my favorite is known as limonáda. It sounds like lemonade but when they say “limonáda”, they mean a drink with sparkling water and fruit added. Most times there is little or no added sugar. You may find raspberry, cherry and my favorite, mint and ginger. Sometimes you might even get lemon, but don’t think of limonáda as a lemon flavored drink. I know it is confusing but, what can you do? It is a very refreshing drink after wandering the streets of Prague.
The Czechs also have their own soft drink, kofola. It was made during the communist era since they didn’t import any soft drinks from the West. I am really not a good person to ask about the flavor, it isn’t for me but, there are many people who love the taste. You should decide for yourself. Most restaurants will serve it.
Soups, Salads, and the Mysterious Greens
Next up, soups. Oh my gosh, they have so many soups! Light summer soups, thick, creamy winter soups. Pumpkin, garlic, guláš, and even cabbage soup. If you like soup, you are in the right country. To give you an idea of how popular soup is, I live next to a farmers market. No matter the weather, the longest line at any food truck will be for the soup. It’s that good!
Some people ask about salads. Just like soups, they are a separate purchase and most salads sold are meal-sized. If you find something green in the standard Czech meal, it will be decorative. You know what I mean, that leaf of something green next to the potatoes. Nobody knows what it is and it is never eaten.
Main Courses: Meat, Gravy, and Dumplings Galore
And now we are at the main course. Let’s look at a few. Guláš, yummy guláš! Czech guláš is something like a beef stew with paprika and onion. The meat is very tender and it comes with knedlíky, or bread dumplings. This is a boiled bread, sliced and served with many Czech dishes. Most Czech dishes have a gravy or sauce, the bread dumplings are your edible gravy sponge. Use your fork (not fingers!) to slop it in the gravy. Some of the sauces are so good people end up cleaning the whole plate.
It will not take long to notice all the pork dishes. Pork neck on a bed of cabbage, pork knuckle, and even pork řízek (schnitzel). The pork knuckle is particularly interesting. First, it is often very big. It is a good thing to share though I have seen people eat one by themselves. Maybe I did once too, but I was starved. The outside will be nice and crispy but the meat is so tender it falls off the bone and very juicy.
A Czech classic you should try is called svíčková. It is a cut of tenderloin, broiled or roasted, covered with a delicious vegetable sauce. It is served with whipped cream and cranberries. Often, this would be a dish the grandmother would prepare when the family was visiting. You should give this dish a try.
For a full guide to Czech cuisine and the best places to try it in Prague, check out our dedicated article.
Czech Table Etiquette for Visitors
Now let’s talk about etiquette. When you sit down you will notice the silverware is not placed on the table but in a container with napkins. Most often it will be just the knife and fork. If you order a soup the spoon comes with the soup. The Czech wait staff is quick to remove plates once the meal is finished. They will be looking at your silverware placement on the plate. If you are finished with the meal you place your utensils parallel and vertical on the plate. If you are just taking a break, cross your utensils on the plate. To be honest, the only time I worry about this is if I am with a group of Czechs. If I am with Americans on a tour the wait staff tends to ask. They seem to only worry about this with Czech groups so it isn’t something you need to try to remember.
Another thing you may notice is, after the meal the restaurant staff may leave you alone. This isn’t because they are ignoring you. In many countries, including the US, the staff brings the bill and they try to subtly get you to leave. In the Czech Republic, you can sit back and enjoy conversation. The waitstaff may see if you want a beer or coffee but that is about it. If you want the bill, simply ask.
How to Pay (and Tip) Like a Local
As for paying the bill, most people pay with credit cards now. In this country, they bring a card machine to the table. If you want to tip, inform the person how much so they can put it on the bill. Unlike the US, the entire total is entered. You can’t add a tip after they enter the total. Tips in the country tend to be 10 to 15 percent so, when the waitstaff hands you the bill, add the amount you plan to tip the bill amount and tell them the total.
Food Diversity in Prague
One final thing you may notice about food in Prague, we have food from all over the world. Some of the best Mexican food I have had is in Prague. Italian restaurants on every street corner. I read once where it was stated that the only city with more Italian places than Prague, is Rome. I don’t know how true it is, but it seems to be. Plus, Vietnamese restaurants are everywhere. Prague has the second-largest Vietnamese expat community in the world. With the diversity of foods, many places are creating fusions of these different flavors. Historically Czechs needed large, meaty meals to feed the workers. As we move into the future, Czech cuisine is expanding to include a variety of flavors as well as lighter dishes.
Looking for tips on the best Prague restaurants serving authentic Czech cuisine? Start with this article. Or would you rather have a local guide take you to their favorite hidden gems? Join our award-winning prague food tour and explore some of Prague’s most unique and delicious food spots.
